You know you're in Guatemala...

...when the car for a 5-person family is a motorcycle. Dad drives, wearing the helmet, young child in front of him, mom behind him, holding the baby, with the oldest child sandwiched between mom and dad.

Boss lady

Marlan has a new boss--Hillary Clinton. Hahahahahahahahahahahahaha

Anniversary

Today is the anniversary of our arrival in Guatemala. It's hard to believe we've been here for a year already. Last year, we were settling in at Casa Serena, living out of suitcases, with no idea where we would live or which way was north and south.

Some things we've learned:
1. La Casserole in Antigua is the best restaurant in Guatemala.
2. Good Samaritan laws (where you help someone who is injured without fear of reprisal) do not exist in Guatemala. Witnesses to bodily crimes can become the next victims. Best to just walk on by and pretend you don't notice. This is really hard for a nurse.
3. When the map says paved/unpaved road, be prepared for only 100 feet of payment and lots of potholes, dust, and gravel.
4. You CAN carry an Evenrude boat motor on your back (with forehead strap) 1 mile down to the river and back.
5. When you encounter a traffic jam, you can bet there are police "directing" the traffic.
6. Contrary to what Curious George says, bananas grow up, not down.
7. Guatemalans generally don't like ice in their drinks; you need to ask for ice for your otherwise lukewarm limonada or soda.
8. There is an "As Seen on TV" store here in La Capital.
9. The yellow bus you used to take to school is probably enjoying it's second life here in Guate, painted red and spewing out all sorts of noxious fumes.
10. The zone system in this city is a nightmare. Each zone has the same calles and avenidas, and you never know when you go from one zone to other. Signs are nonexistent so getting lost is guaranteed.
11. This country is beautiful and interesting, but also very dangerous. You have to be on your guard all the time.
12. We run a very comfortable B&B and we welcome visitors!

We came home from the holidays to find curious little moths flying around in the pantry. I assumed they flew in the open laundry room window along with all the dust. Not so. These Guatemalan moths like frijoles negros, masa flour, avena (oatmeal), and trigo (wheat.) A friend at church INSISTED that I take home a bag of wheat that I could grind in my Vitamix to make bread. I didn't create any golden loaves, but I did create moth heaven in a bag. The upside is that I'm done with my pantry spring cleaning. And no more moths.

The man in the red suit...

Christmas has been in the air here in Guatemala for weeks. The local beer company, Gallo, put up decorations on the streets (including their name as sponsor)and a ginormous tree at the intersection of Avenida de las Americas and Avenida Reforma and the stores are full of all things Christmas. We have been singing carols at church since the beginning of November. So you would think it not surprising to see local vendors selling the man in the red suit. But wait...





A typo???? SATANS for sale? (Just scramble the letters and SANTA becomes SATAN.) No, our jolly guy in the red suit is indeed Satan-and the #7 on his suit is for Dec. 7.

Every year, in the midst of the Christmas season, Guatemalans give the devil his due. According to tradition, all year long, the devil hides in the corners and dark places of a house, worming his way into old papers, garbage, and dust. This brings bad luck (and bugs, allergies, etc..)

So,every Dec. 7, Guatemalans clean every nook and cranny in their houses, gathering up junk, old newspapers...even dust, and build a giant, highly combustible pile in front of their houses.

The man in the red suit, a "Prince of Darkness" pinata, is added to the pile and at exactly 6 pm, the entire unholy heap is set ablaze. (Thank heavens all the houses are constructed from cement. I don't think our bomberos (firemen) could handle an inferno...)

The bonfires, along with the firecrackers and fireworks that freaked out the doggies, is how we here in Guatemala celebrate "La Quema del Diablo"--the Burning of the Devil. Satan is swept from the homes and sent straight back to He**.

Now we can concentrate on the other guy in the red suit...

La cucharacha

I know they have cockroaches in Guatemala, but I haven't seen one since we got here. On my way to class yesterday I saw my first--he was about 2 inches long. Normally, I will step on and squash one if I see it, but not this guy. Reminded me of the roaches in Houston that crawled all over the wall outside once the sun went down. (Speaking of crawling...my skin is right now just thinking about it.) Those guys were aggressive and would fly right at you if you squirted them with Raid. SICK. Yesterday I just walked on by...

Rain, rain, go away, come again another...month? year?

I love rainy days--usually, but I am getting really sick of this rainy season. It's been raining since April and I don't think it has completely dried out since. I am tired of mud, aborted walks, umbrella in the car during a downpour, having the car washed and clean for hours before it's dirty again.

On the other hand, we enjoyed the storm yesterday afternoon, complete with lightening and claps of thunder that started all the car alarms down the road honking. Our car was safe and dry under the building, and we were tucked inside with a great view from our bedroom window.

And this morning we awoke to the sun peeking through the clouds--until the downpour began. Aborted walk, dirty car, mud, umbrella in the car...